Chris is currently out of the office

In the morning I browse the shelf in the office where the logistics equipment is stored.  I find a box labeled “silicone nose repair kit”, curious as to what this is and assuming that “nose” is an Americanism for the front of a vehicle, I am shocked at my boss’ reply “it’s for when a woman’s nose has been chopped or bitten off.”

Later in the afternoon I am chatting to the locals in the area outside the gate where the smoking and chewing of betel-nut takes place.  A woman waves to us and starts talking to the boss.  She starts a monologue “…Jesus will save me, only he can… They do things do me in there”, pointing to the hospital.  I assume she is reporting abuse, but then I realise she is just talking about her treatment and is happy for someone to talk to. She is painfully thin.  I am reluctant to walk back to the ward with her, fearful of what I might see after seeing a man lying on a blood soaked cardboard outside the A&E ward the day before.  He was trying to drink from a water bottle but was too weak and had knocked it over. Staff were too busy to help him.

I see a colleague under the tree who is sitting with his extended family. He is not due on duty for hours.  He tells me later that his nephew is in the hospital dying of AIDS.  I ask the boss if we can
contribute to the 1,000 kina he will need to transport the corpse back to the family home, but we have already had 3 collections in the past week for a daughter, brother and other close family member of staff and our staff cannot afford to donate more money.  Death surrounds us.

I am chatting about the subject of domestic violence later on with the doctor.  I try to comprehend it, but I can’t.  Having paid their “bride price” many local men feel their wife is their property to treat as
they want, but (even if you can comprehend that) it defies logic to damage your most expensive asset.  It seems impossible to understand what provokes the men.  We have treated women who have had kerosene soaked rags inserted into them and lit (for punishment).

I learn that we have a problem in the way we record data!  Our patients are categorised as “domestic violence” (e.g. broken nose from husband) or “sexual violence”(e.g. rape) but if asked, over 80% of domestic violence victims have also been the victims of sexual violence as it is so prevalent within home.

About an hour later I experience my first earthquake.  The concrete steps I am sitting on shake a few inches.  It lasted only about 8 seconds, but it was fun.  The next day I learnt it was a 6.0, 182km
distant and 60km deep.

The elder men wear their traditional costumes, brightly coloured woven material illustrate their clan allegiances (although any inter-clan rivalry is forgotten for the celebrations).  The women, married and single, have on their best outfits and all drink a local brew until they are high.  Dancing in circles the sky is lit up with fire at the climax of the ceremony and the crowds sing traditional songs in old languages that the on-looking tourists and expatriates who have travelled for days to the highlands don’t understand.   Aye, it was good to spend Hogmanay up in Scotland.

So, thanks for reading my blog!

I’m writing this on the 14th January. At this point, I should have been in Papua New Guinea for 11 days, but due to the complexities of getting a work permit (and due to the visa agent sending the letter from the PNG government to the wrong embassy) I’m still in the UK and don’t fly out until the 16th.

I’ve therefore been caught in a loop of leaving parties and the same questions:

“What’s your new job?”

I’ll be the logistician for a group who run a clinic at a hospital doing administration, ordering supplies, looking after some local staff, making sure the computers and vehicles are working and generally fixing things.

“Who will I work for?”

Médecins Sans Frontières, an independent, secular, aid agency who provide medical assistance to those with acute needs.

“What are they doing in PNG?”

They run a small clinic in the town of Lae. Sexual and domestic violence is prolific in PNG, literally the majority of women will be the victims of it. Médecins Sans Frontières are providing for their acute medical needs and showing the Ministry of Health how better to help these women.

“Is PNG dangerous?

Like many places, street violence is common, often taking the form of robbery or car-jackings. Médecins Sans Frontières have procedures to mitigate the risk, and frankly, being robbed of my £5 Casio watch and my iPod isn’t going to traumatise me any more than having to spend another year in London watching city boys in suits quaff pinot grigio. And besides, I’m told that the locals understand and respect our workers.

“What will I do at the end of my 9 month project?”

I don’t know.
I’m enjoying not knowing.

Chris Houston

Chris is 30 years old, from Glasgow Scotland.  Prior to joining Médecins Sans Frontières (MSF), Chris worked as a Risk Management Consultant advising multinational corporations on fire, security and terrorism risks.  Chris also spent 4 years working as a Fire and Emergency Support Services volunteer for the British Red Cross and co-lead a small team who went to Sri Lanka to provide assistance following the asian tsunami of 2004.  Chris is a passionate traveller, photographer and fan of the Scotland football team, and likes karaoke.  He is currently learning the air guitar.  Chris is fluent in over 5 languages including Scottish, English, American, Canadian and Australian.  His mission to Papua New Guinea is his first MSF posting; he is working as a Logistician.